I’m not going to say that making a motor from scratch is “easy”, but…if you decide you simply have to build one, then the Lebowski Axial is probably the “easiest” one to make, and I have been studying these things for a while. Most motors are “radial flux” which is like a cup spinning inside another cup that’s slightly larger. However, there are some axial-flux motors that are available to buy, and the axials are configured like one plate spinning next to another plate (as seen in the pics here).
If this interests you, I recommend that you first take a quick skim through the pictures in our article “Motor tech, Learn the Terms”. Many common questions you might have about motors will be answered in that article, so I’m writing this as if you have already read that.
I believe inrunner radials are more popular for non-hubmotor applications because they are easier to cool passively with the stator having the outer aluminum fins attached to it. Outrunner hubmotors can add ferro-fluid to dramatically increase passive cooling. If you can increase the heat-shedding in a motor design, this means you can temporarily use massive amps for acceleration. For a short while, Zero motorcycles used an early Motenergy axial-flux design that had a single rotor in the center, and two stators with one on each side. Adding air-fans or liquid-cooling can help, but having the hot coils near the airflow around the vehicle helped the passive heat-shedding.
The downside of an axial-flux is that in order to make the motor more powerful, you can keep adding stators and rotors of the same diameter (which makes the motor wider), but…the stators nested in the center of the motor have a difficult time passively shedding heat. Once an engineer adds liquid-cooling to the equation to get heat out of the core, the added complexity, weight, and cost can make other designs more desirable.
My interest in non-hubmotor DIY motors is because of my concern that in the future, there might be a trade embargo affecting products from China. To be fair, you would still need to buy Neodymium magnets and also the enameled magnet-wire to build this, and both of those are likely going to be found as manufactured in China.
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Who the hell is Lebowski?
If you think that designing an electric motor so it can be built in a DIY garage is impressive, he only designed this to help him design a DIY sine-wave “Field Oriented Control” FOC controller! (link below). The name “Lebowski” is an avatar from a user at the electric bicycle chat forum, endless-sphere.com, and I am grateful that he posted the pics of this build there (click here for a link to their motor section), and the links to his discussion on this motor build are also located at the bottom of this article.
Lebowski lives in Zurich, Switzerland, and here is a short video showing his DIY controller and motor working. His youtube channel is “81FXB”
The configuration as a 3-phase “Permanent Magnet Direct Current” / PMDC motor with an axial-flux layout. His first prototype was a 250W single rotor / single stator version for proof-of-concept. Click here to see that one. The prototype was able to provide temporary peaks of 1000W without overheating.
The 2300W version shown in this article (60V x 38A = 2300 Watts) has three stators and four magnet rotors, with two of the rotors being double-sided.
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The Axle-Hub and Magnet-Rotors
For a spindle, he chose a robust rear bicycle axle-hub that uses a “freehub cassette”, instead of a common threaded freewheel. A builder could keep adding rotors and stators to make this motor even wider to provide more power potential, but…that would require a custom spindle.
Out of the four rotors in this design, the two outer rotors only have magnets on one side (obviously facing the stators), and the two stators near the center of the motor have magnets on both sides, with the steel sheet between them. The magnet-holding frames are common aluminum.
The rotors could be made lighter by drilling a lot of holes in their framework, but the mass of aluminum here provides mass as a heat-sink to help the magnets avoid getting overheated during the heat spikes of acceleration, when amps are at their highest. Some common grades of neodymium magnets can start permanently losing some of their magnetism if they reach a temperature of 178F / 80C.
If a motor is cool under all conditions, then it “might be” larger, heavier, and more expensive than necessary. If it gets too hot, many things can be damaged, like…Hall sensors, bearing seals, wire insulation, and magnet flux. Many of these can be damaged as you near 200F / 93C, and I think that…140F / 60C is a useful goal for a system design.
Samarium-Cobalt magnets were invented to survive very high temperatures, but…they are expensive.
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The Stators
As we stated in our article on the history of electrical terms (click here to read that), The modern electromagnet was discovered by William Sturgeon, and this is the key invention that made practical motors possible, since an electromagnet can be turned on and off.
In the rotors shown above, the magnets are “permanent magnets”. However, in the stators, we see the copper-wire coils that can have an electro-magnetic field turned on and off by a controller as needed at the precise moment where its flux will cause the rotor to spin, and perform work.
I have seen single-phase motors, which buzz a bit with all the coils energized and de-energized at the same moment. I have also seen 5-phase motors which are arguable smoother and a bit more efficient, but…they are also more complex, and they require a 5-phase controller which is not common at all.
Combining the coils into three evenly-dispersed groups is the simplest configuration that is widely regarded to be reasonably smooth and quiet. Plus, if you make a 3-phase motor, you can use common and affordable controllers and “rotor position sensors”. In this design, Lebowski uses nine coils in groups of three. The three coils shown below will be wired together to be energized and de-energized at the same time.
Lebowski chose acrylic sheets, and I have also seen poly-carbonate used. Both are fairly heat-resistant.
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The Boring Tech Details
“…It’ll be connected in WYE with the stator plates in series. Putting them parallel would be very bad…The acrylic glass can take a very high temperature. I dropped solder blobs on it and
had a naked flame touching it for a short time (for the wire shrink stuff) but that did not affect it at all..At 1000rpm it should deliver around 2000W mechanical output power…there’s no cogging. It runs a smooth and easy as a bicycle wheel…I run this motor with a sinewave controller and it behaves flawlessly. The motor has quite some inductance, if I remember correctly about 20uH per coil and each phase has 9 coils in series…from 1500 rpm and 2.3 kW mechanical power, internet says its 14.6 Nm of torque…”
As a final note, You can use this configuration to make a single-stator motor with two rotors, which would be roughly 800W at 60V, or…a dual-stator four-rotor motor for roughly 1600W at 60V.
If you added steel cores to the coils, the resulting motor would be more power dense, but it would also have a type of drag called “cogging” and it would also have more waste heat produced. Zero motorcycles did this for a time and used a single double-faced central rotor, with outer stators on either side, allowing for better air-cooling, like the Zero/Motenergy ME0913 motor. Here are detailed pics of the single-stator/single rotor version.
The full sized version shown in this article (three stators / six rotors, with four of them double-sided so it looks like four rotors) provides 2300W at 60V, which would also be roughly 2000W at my favorite ebike voltage of 52V / 14S.
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Links
The 2300W motor build discussion (Click here)
The 250W / 1000W “peak” prototype discussion (Click Here)
Riding around for a year on the 250W prototype (Click here)
Lebowski’s Youtube channel (Click here)
Lebowski’s DIY sinewave FOC controller discussion (Click here)
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Written by Ron/spinningmagnets, June 2023